A "Norteño" is someone from the ranch country, "up north." Often the word conveys a sense of "country," as in "country cookin'." The El Norteño Restaurant, on Caletilla beach, offers fish and shellfish fresh from the ocean, and prepared in a tasty, home-cooked style. Talla, the specialty, is a dish made from red snapper fillets in spicy red sauce. The customer can choose how big a fish to ask for, depending on appetite. The restaurant provides food and drink service to chairs and tables under parasols at the beach side, so many customers come, open a tab, and make a day of it.